Only Studio - Helbers Case Study

In 2015, Only were approached to create a brand identity for an up-and-coming fashion label.

The Brief

Helbers is the eponymous menswear label from Paul Helbers, the former Head of Menswear at Maison Margiela and ex Menswear Director at Louis Vuitton. The curated collection 'operates between fashion fantasy and lifestyle reality,' with each piece said to offer a feeling of unpolished elegance underlined by a subtle clash of contrasting fabrics with cross-generational appeal. 

The Approach

Only worked with Paul in creating a harmonious brand identity. The Helbers word-mark, set in a bespoke version of Meta Serif, represents balance between the two contrasting worlds of the contemporary the antiquarian. This being a reflection of the collection itself. Natural textures and quality materials are used throughout to capture the notion of care, craftsmanship and utility. Despite being a high-end luxury label, Only opted for an absence of ostentation to 'formulate an unprecious sense of appearance.'

Reception

Helbers AW16 collection won early acclaim and fans from buyers at Barneys, Mr. Porter and Matches Fashion. Helbers renewed his relationship with Only for his SS17 collection as the label continued to build a following. 

Print

Printed collateral for the brand follows suit in Only's endeavour to formulate an unprecious sense of appearance through fine attention to detail supplied through small centralised red lines on the pages of the inner-cover spread. These lines frame the heavily-cropped inner pages from above and below, and can be seen throughout as a result. A matte cool grey, red and white colour scheme and minimal layout make for a contemporary aesthetic with a cool, vibrant edge. Understated elegance is the truest sense. 

Digital

Only clearly identify the luxury sector as being aesthetic-driven, though replicating the finishes and attention to detail potentials of print is not so easy online. This is why the studio cite animations and details as the 'foil of the screen.' To achieve digital luxury, it is more about creating a user-experience through animation and transition. 

Helbers' digital presence appears minimal, understated and contemporary - in keeping with the brand identity and printed collateral.

The work produced by Only for Helbers' showcase new luxury potentials. The luxury consumer has evolved, and therefore design for this sector must also. The lack of grandeur and opulence here is a total contrast to what is typically considered as luxury, though the Helbers identity undoubtedly has a high-end feel on both online/digital platforms and in printed collateral. In the future, I may consider such an approach to luxury design in attempt to explore this emerging aesthetic. Attention to detail is the key to luxury design, and not necessarily extravagance in some cases.